Monthly Archives: February 2010

North of the earthquake

We arrived in Arequipa, Peru, this morning after two overnight buses from Ecuador. The first thing our taxi driver, David, asked us when we jumped in was if we were headed for Chile. We said yes. He then explained the horrible 8.8-magnitude earthquake that ripped through Santiago, Chile’s capital, early this morning.

I learned the Spanish word for “earthquake”, terremoto. He told me the newspapers would have information about it tomorrow morning and to keep and eye out.

An American kid sitting next to us in an Internet cafe earlier today asked if we heard about the earthquake. His family sent him repeated e-mails warning him to stay away from the beaches because of possible tsunamis and making sure he was well-away from the danger.

Josh and I are fine. Our plans are, and still may be, to travel into northern Chile Monday morning, staying in San Pedro de Atacama for a couple days before going into northern Argentina. We hoped to work our way down the northern part of Argentina, in several days, then over on the Trans-Andes Highway from Mendoza, Argentina, to Santiago, Chile. 

We will see if it is still possible to travel from Santiago down to Puerto Montt, Chile, which looks like it is through the epicenter of the recent earthquake.

For updated information on the earthquake and related tsunami warnings, NY Times is regularly updating stories.

We’ll post more as we travel closer.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/28/world/americas/28chile.html?hp

Book exchanges

Even though each hostel is different, some crowded and dirty, others clean and sparse, some elements run commonly through all of them. 

Most have kitchens, for example. Though, a “kitchen”, we’ve learned, can include everything from a stove, microwave, toaster and spices, to a large, gas burner out back near the utility sink.

Most also have book exchanges, a necessary service for anyone traveling more than a week or so. Aside from the actual books we find, the selection provides its own entertainment.

In one exchange in Antigua, Guatemala, options included Boiling a Frog, by Christopher Brooklyn, two dozen Baby Sitters Club books, Ronald Reagan’s, An American Life, Science and Health with Keys to the Scripture and a wide array of tantalizing romances by Nora Roberts and Danielle Stelle.

As the rain poured down outside, I sat on the floor, scanning through a hidden gem: Guiness Book of World Records.

“Fastest Crossing of the America’s by Motorcycle: Nick Alcock and Hugh Sinclair, (UK) rode a pair of Honda African Twin 742-cc motorcycles from Prudhoe Bay, AK to Ushuaia, Argentina, in 47 days and 12 hours from Aug. 29 to Oct. 15, 2001, a distance of around 15,000 miles (24,000 km). Alcock and Sinclair embarked on the challenge to raise funds for Action Aide.”

I can’t imagine covering the distance we have in 47 days, and we still have most of South America to travel.

Another book, nestled next to the 25 Greatest Achievements in Golf, promises to reveal “startling new evidence” on Big Foot’s existence.

I settled on a three-in-one mystery. I  figured it would provide thoughtless entertainment for an upcoming bus ride.

Our hostel in Panama City upgraded the average book exchange solving the problem of worn-out, cheaper paperbacks filling the shelves. One exchange is open to everyone, the other is locked, and books must be approved before swapped. Fortunately, they accepted The Pilot’s Wife, and I took Ken Follett’s bohemoth novel, Pillars of the Earth.

In some ways, book exchanges are a library for travelers and we’ve started choosing hostels in part by which ones offer the service. By the end of our six-month journey we both will have read dozens of books and purchased only two.

Never too old

This ran in January in the Casper Star-Tribune, but I can’t find the link. So, here it is…

Participants carrying their boards line the top of Cerro Negro volcano outside of Leon, Nicaragua.

 

We stand at the top of the most active volcano in Central America, arms resting on two-foot-wide boards, staring over the edge.

It slopes nicely at first, like many of the white, snowy hills my dad sent me down as a kid in Wyoming. Unfortunately, midway through the nearly 2,400-foot mountain, the nice slope drops off, and ground is lost until scores of yards later when it levels into a field of boulders that looks like a graveyard.

“You should pick up some speed at first, before you hit the ledge and really take off,” Danny, our 20-something British guide tells us.

I’d been here before, three years ago, and remember it as an exciting, yet relatively safe experience. After all, no one in our group went home bloody.

My husband, Josh, wanted to try this time, and I figured since my parents were visiting for two weeks it would be an adventuresome experience I knew my dad could come out of unscathed.

Only, as I look down the hill where, in 2001, a Frenchman briefly broke a world record riding a bike, things seem different. It appears steeper, and these boards are slimmer, more sophisticated.

Last time I boarded down Cerro Negro we used wider sleds, with exposed wood underneath and a foam pad to sit on.

Danny says the sport has regressed into speed-craving insanity.

Now, the boards we hold are lined with metal and an extra piece of “go fast” Formica. The fastest recorded time on one of these is roughly 51 miles and hour. In a car that’s not so scary, on an inch-thick wooden board on black volcanic gravel only slightly more forgiving than asphalt, it’s a whole different story.

This wasn’t my plan for a safe-but-fun activity.

I quickly think of ways to get my dad off the hill without sledding down, but can’t come up with anything. I can’t believe I’ve drug him up this thing. He did crazy things as a young person, but now he should be sensible. Once you’re in your 60s you should want to sit and read and take long walks, right?

Danny tells us we’re going down the hill in pairs. Two tracks, about 20-feet apart, defined at the beginning and then washed out farther down from past boarder’s rolling.

About two-dozen of us crowd around the tracks, wondering who’s going to go first and feeling nervous as volcano boarding becomes a reality. Nearly all of us are in our 20s, with the exception of my dad and two other men a bit younger.

There’s a pause and some feet shuffling after Danny asks for volunteers. I’ll feel better about this after I watch a couple go down first, I think. I’ll talk go-slow strategy with my dad. That’ll help.

Nope. Apparently, my father’s going to be the first one down the hill, I realize as he trots his board to the start. He and a 20-something Dutch kid. 

He takes off, impervious to my shouts to be careful, and I watch as he disappears over the edge, neck and neck with his racing partner. I can’t tell how fast they’re going, except the Dutch kid seemed fearless and disappointed that the speed gun wasn’t working because he wanted to beat the record.

A tiny speck at the bottom, I see my dad walking, though don’t understand why he’s so far away from his board.

Minutes later I, too, am at the bottom.

After I collect my board, and myself, and remove as much volcano gravel out of my clothes as possible, I look over and see him grinning ear to ear, blood dripping off his nose.

He fell, as did his partner. But, he got down first.

As racers pile at the bottom of the hill, some blackened and bloody, some just blackened, all stop in awe of his wounds.

One guy stops to take a picture.

“Man, that’s awesome. I was just telling someone else that I have to do this kind of stuff now, cause I don’t think I’ll be able to when I’m 40!”

My dad didn’t do it when he was 40 either; he waited until he was 61.

The comparison became a running joke, marking the age when everything ends. Though in reality I also find myself cramming in everything I can, figuring I won’t be able to do it when I’m 40, or 60.

But, after two weeks traveling through Nicaragua and Costa Rica with my parents, meeting countless other post-40 travelers, and coming in behind more than one post-60 runner in my only marathon, I realize my adventures have just begun.

If my dad can slide down the most active volcano in Central America at 61, and my mom can climb up one in her late 50s, surely I will be able to do anything I want. Though for my emotional well-being, I’d prefer if they kept the extreme sports to a minimum.

Donald Robinson after volcano boarding in Nicaragua.